Alula article

by Per Smitterberg

Among Swedish, as well as visiting foreign birders, Scania and Öland have been the most popular destinations in Sweden in recent decades. Many exciting species are, of course, found at these places, but, if you prefer quality birding, Gotland is a good alternative. Year round there are daily connections to the island by air and sea.

Gotland is the largest island in the Baltic Sea, about 130 km long and 56 km wide. Most visitors only go to Visby and maybe on a guided tour to Fårö or the southernmost point. But for the naturalist there are many different habitats to see.

The island is perhaps best known for its many long beaches, each with their corresponding avifaunas. Large parts of the west coast, south to Karlsöarna, offer steep crevices. They are evidence of the geological history of the island, which was once a coral reef in an ancient tropical sea. The species numbers are generally low in these areas, apart from on the islands of Stora and Lilla Karlsö, which form the only two bird cliffs in the Baltic Sea. Both islands have large colonies of Cormorant Phalacrocorax carbo, Guillemot Uria aalge, Razorbill Alca torda and large gulls.

The beaches south from Karlsöarna and up to the bay of Lausviken on the eastern side have a totally different habitat, consisting of low and often well-grazed shore meadows. Here you can find all the wonderful waders and ducks that give the meadows their character. Avocet Recurvirostra avocetta, southern Dunlin Calidris alpina schinzii, Black-tailed Godwit Limosa limosa, Gadwall Anas strepera and Garganey A. querquedula are just a few of the breeding birds. The open, inviting landscape is the result of long-term grazing.

A third type of habitat can be found along the northeast shore of Gotland, that is, the rocky shore with its stone walls. This habitat is rather barren, with mainly junipers or coastal woods with pines being the only vegetation.

Another important habitat is the Gotland wetlands; marshes, shallow lagoons and lakes. These habitats are important sites for grebes, Marsh Harrier Circus aeroginosus, Montagu’s Harrier C. pygargus, Crane Grus grus, rails, Little Gull Larus minutus, Yellow Wagtail Motacilla flava and Bearded Tit Panurus biarmicus.

There are meadows everywhere that form a green oasis in the open rural landscape. Together with the shore meadows they are the most important part of the Gotland ecosystem. Species often seen in these lush and sometimes dense thickets are Tawny Owl Strix aluco, Collared Flycatcher Ficedula albicollis, Nuthatch Sitta europeaea, Golden Oriole Oriolus oriolus, Wood Warbler Phylloscopus sibilatrix and Greenish Warbler Ph. trochiloides.
Apart from these deciduous woods that have been converted by man, there are large areas of coniferous forest. This forest consists of slender pine trees, which grow along the coasts. The main bird species in these forests are Wood Lark Lullula arborea, Tree Pipit Anthus trivialis and Nightjar Caprimulgus europeaea. Golden Eagle Aquila chrysateos also has a stable population with two dozen pairs. (today 50 pairs! editors remark) Often, especially in autumn and winter, it is possible to see Golden Eagles hunting along the beaches.

A large proportion of the eastern population of Barnacle Geese Branta leucopsis pass and stop over Gotland in the tens of thousands. Sightings of a single Red-breasted Goose B. ruficollis are regular.
The southernmost tip of Gotland, is the best raptor passage site from in the fall. It is not unusual to see 15 species of raptors in a day.

To sum up, I would like to suggest the following. If you stay a week, you should have time to visit most of the habitats. You should also include a visit to the Karlsöarna islands, preferably with an overnight stay. The southernmost part of Gotland is where you will find many species in a variety of habitats all within a limited area. Here there are several good deciduous woods and the most fantastic shore meadows on the island. Here you can see Avocets, Black-tailed Godwits, several terns, all the Swedish ducks, hunting White-tailed Sea Eagle Haliaetus albicilla and Golden Eagle, as well as Bearded Tits in the reeds. The bushy areas near the shore are, together with Stora Karlsö, the stronghold for Barred Warbler Sylvia nisoria on Gotland. If you have more time on your hands then a visit to Fårö (home of late Ingmar Bergman) is recommended. The island is rich in habitat and species all occur in a limited area.

CHECKLIST OF INTERESTING SPECIES
Great Bittern
Barnacle Goose
Red-breasted Goose
Gadwall
Garganey
Montagu’s Harrier
Golden Eagle
Red-footed Falcon
Eurasian Hobby
Corncrake
Pied Avocet
Black-tailed Godwit
Dunlin race schinzii
Lesser Black-backed Gull
Little Gull
Caspian Tern
Little Tern
Razorbill
Common Guillemot
Black Guillemot
European Turtle Dove
Eurasian Hoopoe
Eurasian Wryneck
Lesser Spotted Woodpecker
Greater Short-toed Lark
Rock Pipit
White-throated Dipper
Thrush Nightingale
Bearded Reedling
Grasshopper Warbler
River Warbler
Savi’s Warbler
Blyth’s Reed Warbler
Great Reed Warbler
Greenish Warbler
Barred Warbler
Collared Flycatcher
Red-breasted Flycatcher
Common Rosefinch
Eurasian Golden Oriole
Spotted Nutcracker

/Per Smitterberg, local guide

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